The Journey of Emanuele Mazzola: Rediscovering Italian Baking in America

A Tale of Passion and Craft

BY LF ITALY

February, 2025

Emanuele Mazzola, Executive Baker at Cipriani, faced a tough choice when he moved to the U.S. He had to choose between abandoning his love for bread or rediscovering the ancient secrets of Italian baking. These secrets could change the way we digest and relate to carbohydrates.

The Cultural Divide: Bread in Italy vs. North America

Emanuele Mazzola: In North America, bread often serves as a quick meal option. It’s usually linked to fast food or sandwiches. However, Italian culture places great importance on bread. It represents community and connection. Imagine a rustic loaf at the center of a table, with family and friends enjoying good food, time, and conversation.

The Science Behind Bread: Traditional vs. Commercial Methods

What distinguishes traditional fermentation from commercial baking methods?

E.M.: Traditional fermentation respects time. It treats time as a vital ingredient. Many commercial bakeries cut corners. They use additives designed to mimic slow fermentation. Preservatives extend shelf life but compromise health benefits and flavor. Authentic artisanal fermentation produces both complex flavors and essential nutrients.

Understanding Sourdough: A Personal Journey

Could you explain how traditional sourdough fermentation affects wheat proteins and gluten sensitivity?

E.M.: My journey with gluten sensitivity taught me a lot. After moving to the U.S., I adjusted my diet. Interestingly, I found that I could enjoy wheat again through traditional methods. Gluten is often blamed for many digestive issues. However, slow fermentation can help. It appears to pre-digest gluten proteins, making them easier for our bodies to handle.

The Four Pillars: Quality Ingredients in Italian Bread

What makes traditional Italian bread exceptional with just four basic ingredients?

E.M.: Exceptional bread comes from superior ingredients and age-old techniques. Expert millers carefully process high-quality grains. This provides us with outstanding flours. When combined with our saper fare (know-how), these pure ingredients are sufficient to feed our sourdough starters. They result in bread that offers remarkable flavors and textures.

Health Implications: Traditional vs. Industrial Bread

How does traditional fermented bread differ from industrial bread in terms of health impact?

E.M.: Many people group all bread together without understanding that not all carbs are created equal. Industrial bread mainly consists of simple carbohydrates, which aren’t ideal for healthy eating. In contrast, traditional fermentation results in complex carbohydrates that our bodies process much better.

Navigating the Market: Finding Authentic Bread

What should consumers look for to identify authentic, well-made bread?

E.M.: This is challenging for consumers due to misleading marketing. There’s no legal definition for sourdough bread, which adds to the confusion. I advise my children and customers alike: Look for products with the shortest ingredient lists. This is often the healthiest option.

Flavor Profiles: Italian vs. American Bread

What’s the key difference in Italian and American bread?

E.M.: In North America, bread often acts as a neutral vessel, sometimes flavorless and loaded with ingredients. For Europeans, especially Italians, artisanal bread is an essential element of a meal. Quality bread gives subtle aromas and flavors that complement simple toppings rather than competing with them.

The Misunderstanding of Bread and Carbohydrates

Why is the modern fear of bread and carbohydrates misguided?

E.M.: Dietary trends have historically vilified various foods like eggs, butter, and even fats. Recently, carbohydrates have joined that list. The truth is about balance. Traditional diets that included bread often led to better health. When people embraced seasonal, simple ingredients, we saw fewer cases of obesity, diabetes, and food allergies. Ultra-processed foods have negatively impacted our health. Historically, people were more active and relied on good bread for energy.

Redefining Bread in Our Lives

The Quest for Quality: What Can We Do?

To enjoy bread again, we must seek quality over convenience. Look for bakeries that value traditional methods. Support local artisans who create bread with time and care. By choosing authentic bread, we embrace a healthier lifestyle.