Meet Frank Grillo, the Italian-American Visionary who Transformed Puglia’s 2,000-Year-Old Altamura Grain into World-Class Vodka.
BY GIOVANNA G. BONOMO
October, 2024
Galileo Galilei poetically described wine as “sunlight, held together by water.” Centuries later, Frank Grillo, an American-Italian visionary, reimagined Altamura’s iconic bread as “wheat in liquid format.” This innovative venture transforms revered local bread into premium vodka, challenging tradition and opening unexplored avenues in Italy’s rich gastronomic landscape. It’s a tale of cultural heritage colliding with modern ingenuity, distilled into each remarkable bottle.
As a marketing executive originally from New York, he made a life-changing decision during the global pandemic. Against the backdrop of worldwide uncertainty, Grillo embarked on a bold journey, relocating from Atlanta, Georgia where he was living with his partner Justin and their dog, to Ostuni, Puglia—not knowing what they would do aside from what they were already doing: working from home in sunny Salento. “My family is all Italian-American. I am in the process of getting my citizenship through my father’s father,” he explains. “I love Italy because we travelled here a lot together. I’ve been here 13 times before moving here. I just really love the place, so one day during lockdown I said, why aren’t we doing this in Italy?”
BEYOND BREAD
It was after this pandemic-inspired move that Grillo discovered the bread that would change the trajectory of his life in Italy. He recounts, “When I decided to move here, I love to cook and I was looking for Apulian recipes, and like every crazy American, I had a sourdough starter at the house and there was pane di Altamura, this bread from the town of Altamura.
So I tried baking it and it came out pretty well, and I stared at this loaf of bread saying, this is nothing more than a bottle of vodka or gin or bourbon waiting to happen.” Altamura bread, with its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status and a history dating back over 2000 years to the time of Horace in 37 BC, piqued Grillo’s interest. “Its rich heritage and unique flavor profile captivated me,” he says. “It was during this time that it suddenly occurred to me—why not distill something from this ancient wheat variety to tell the story of Altamura in liquid form?”
Inspired by his newfound love for Altamura bread, Grillo set out to transform the ancient grain into a unique spirit. The transition from idea to reality was rooted in the unique properties of Altamura wheat.
This ancient grain, with its hard semolina composition, proved ideal for distillation. The production area’s unique hilly terroir and climatic conditions add a particular aromatic profile to the wheat that is captured in the vodka. Opting for a distinctive flavor, Grillo decided the vodka should be distilled three times to preserve the wheat’s organoleptic traits, resulting in a 43% ABV (Alcohol By Volume) vodka rich in bread-like aromas, with umami-like flair. The decision to enhance the
alcohol content from 40% was made to create a more pronounced character.
A Blend of Tradition and Modernity
From the ingredients to the packaging, each element of Altamura Vodka offers a window into the region’s storied past. The lion featured on the label serves as Altamura’s emblem, a tribute to King Frederick II who dubbed the city “Lion” for its adept defense against the Bourbons. Today, this iconic feline graces the cellars of the world’s finest cocktail bars, all because of Grillo’s desire to craft vodka from wheat.
Embracing the Italian Way
Starting a distillery in Italy presents a unique set of challenges. The country’s complex bureaucracy, intricate regulations, and often slow-moving administrative processes can test even the most determined entrepreneur. Grillo’s approach in the face of these challenges is both pragmatic and philosophical. He shares, “I came up with a saying that my friend turned into an apron, and it came as a result of trying to start up the distillery. It says, ‘Every morning in Italy, I try to do one thing before lunch, if it doesn’t happen I say fuck it, drink a Negroni and try again tomorrow.’ That’s really what you have to try to do here. You have to go through the day hopeful and not with the full expectation if it doesn’t happen. It’s ok.”
A Growing Legacy
Today, Altamura Distilleries is celebrated in Italy and internationally as a fusion of tradition and innovation, encapsulated in each meticulously distilled bottle. The family-sourced 2000-year-old wheat ensures consistency, catering primarily to the discerning bar industry with a team dedicated to exceeding demands.
The revelation that an American who moved during a global pandemic was at the helm of this Italian-inspired venture sent ripples through the spirits industry. Yet, it’s Grillo’s respect for tradition combined with a fresh perspective that has allowed Altamura Distilleries to carve out its unique place in the world of spirits, offering a taste of Puglia’s rich wheat heritage in liquid form.
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