Set on the volcanic soil of Lazio’s Tuscia region, where Etruscans once tended their groves, Pietro Re walks between olive trees that have watched centuries pass. These gnarled sentinels, rooted in rich volcanic soil, have sustained four generations of his family's olive oil craft, and now produce some of Italy's most distinguished extra virgin olive oils under the name Olio Tamia.
BY GIOVANNA G. BONOMO
February, 2025
The story of each harvest begins when autumn paints the hillsides. Re moves through the groves with practiced patience, studying each tree as nets spread beneath ancient branches, their silver leaves catching the late morning sun. He waits for that precise moment when the olives hold their peak flavors and health-giving compounds, before winter winds threaten the harvest. Inside Olio Tamia's old stone mill, the air grows thick with an intense green scent – sharp and peppery, with hints of artichoke and fresh almonds. This blend of old wisdom and new technology captures what Romans once called "liquid gold." The result is extraordinary: bright tomato notes from rare Merino pressings dance across the palate, while the complex profile of Caninese DOP Tuscia builds to an unexpected peppery finale. The intense fruitiness whispers of green artichoke, a testament to the volcanic soils that have nourished these trees for generations. These characteristics leave even the most seasoned olive oil connoisseurs speechless.
While many producers casually use terms like "extra virgin" and "first cold pressed," Olio Tamia quietly exceeds standard benchmarks, focusing on nuances that most never notice. Through generations of pressing olives, the Re family has learned that nature can't be rushed. They've weathered dry years and abundant harvests, adapting to changing times while maintaining their commitment to excellence. Every decision in the grove – from winter pruning to harvest timing – stems from their understanding that quality can't be hurried. It develops gradually, season after season, tree by tree.
For Re, this work transcends creating premium olive oil for high-end kitchens. Each bottle contains the essence of Mediterranean life – the same antioxidant-rich oil that has supported local longevity for generations. "It's about preserving a way of living," Re reflects, "maintaining our connection to the land, and honoring the truth that the finest things require time." Every golden drop of Olio Tamia carries not just the fruit's essence, but generations of hard-won wisdom and a profound respect for nature's rhythms.
The Volcanic Terroir of Tuscia
The medieval town of Vetralla, perched atop the volcanic plateaus of northern Lazio, is home to Olio Tamia’s groves. Here, the olive trees grow in a unique terroir, their roots diving deep into mineral-rich volcanic soil. “The volcanic soil doesn’t just feed the trees,” Re explains, “it speaks through them. Each bottle tells the story of this land.” Tamia’s story began in 1928, when brothers Sergio and Sante Delle Monache planted not just olive trees, but the seeds of a vision that would revolutionize Italian olive oil production. Unlike their contemporaries who merely bottled oils from various sources, the Delle Monache brothers imagined something more profound: complete control over every aspect of their olive oil production. Today, Olio Tamia boasts 15 partners, including international investors, united in their commitment to innovation and quality. “Tradition is the enemy of innovation, even when that innovation is environmentally friendly,” Re asserts. “Our company is young, but we still preserve merit diplomas for oils produced from our trees dating back to 1931.”
Among the 1,200 olive varieties in the world, the Caninese stands out as a hidden gem. This indigenous cultivar, native to the hills of Tuscia, has long been overshadowed by more famous Italian varieties. But in the hands of a master like Pietro Re, it reveals a potency and complexity that have left even seasoned olive oil sommeliers spellbound. Cultivating the Caninese is a challenge, but the rewards are extraordinary. The oil it produces is a harmonious dance of subtle bitterness and buttery sweetness, accented with notes of almond and resin.
Tamia’s DOP Tuscia Extra Virgin Olive Oil, crafted from the Caninese olive, has garnered top honors at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. This “modern” oil, as Re calls it, is prized for its high polyphenol content and delicate flavor profile that complements rather than dominates dishes. “The Caninese has a unique profile,” Re explains, “intensely fruity, with notes of green tomato and artichoke, and a peppery finish that can catch you by surprise.” Olio Tamia’s monovarietal Caninese oil has become a sought-after rarity among connoisseurs, a testament to the hidden potential of this forgotten cultivar. Re’s passion for the Caninese is rooted in more than just flavor. “This variety is part of our heritage,” he says. “It’s adapted to our unique terroir over centuries. Preserving and celebrating it is a way of honoring the land and the wisdom of our ancestors.” But Tamia’s range extends far beyond a single variety. Re has mastered the nuances of cultivars like Frantoio, Leccino, Maurino, and Moraiolo, each contributing its own unique blend of health-promoting compounds to Tamia’s oils.
“Each variety has its own personality,” Re explains. “Frantoio brings a robust, peppery flavor, while Leccino offers a softer, more buttery profile. Maurino and Moraiolo add complexity and depth. By carefully blending these varieties, we create oils that are not only delicious but also packed with beneficial polyphenols.” Perhaps the most remarkable of Tamia’s oils comes from their cultivation of the rare Merino olive, grown in one of the few dedicated groves worldwide. This exceptional variety produces an oil that announces itself with bright tomato notes before revealing deeper layers of complexity that linger in the memory.
Crafting Liquid Gold
Olio Tamia’s Extra Virgin Olive Oils are distinguished by their aromatic complexity, persistence on the palate, and flexibility in the kitchen, all achieved through sustainable practices and respect for nature. Re is meticulous about every step of the process, from the early harvest to the rapid cold-pressing that preserves the olives’ beneficial compounds.
Tamia’s commitment to innovation has been evident since 1931, when the Ministry of Agriculture selected their groves for groundbreaking cultivation experiments. This scientific approach reached new heights in 1969 with their four-year research collaboration with ENEA. Today, Tamia continues to push boundaries, embracing organic farming methods and rigorous quality testing that bridges the gap between ancient wisdom and modern innovation.
The resulting oils are a spectrum of flavors—intensely grassy, peppery, with subtle notes of artichoke and almond. They shape-shift in the kitchen, enhancing everything from creamy burrata to grilled meats to a simple slice of toasted bread. The key, Re believes, is in the polyphenols, potent antioxidants abundant in high-quality EVOO.
EVOO: The Elixir of Longevity
Polyphenols are more than flavor compounds—they may be the key to olive oil’s remarkable health benefits. A landmark study by the Umberto Veronesi Foundation followed 23,000 Italian adults over 12 years and found that regular EVOO consumption significantly reduces both overall mortality and death from chronic diseases. In the famed “Blue Zones,” where people routinely live past 100, extra virgin olive oil is treated as a form of medicine. Re believes his oils, with their high polyphenol content, could be the elixir of longevity the modern world is seeking. But he knows that education is just as crucial as quality.
Educating the Palate
A landmark 2010 UC Davis study sent shockwaves through the culinary world: 69% of imported olive oils labeled “extra virgin” failed to meet basic quality standards. It’s this troubling reality that drives Re’s mission of radical transparency and consumer enlightenment. “Extra virgin olive oil isn’t just about tasting notes—it’s about education,” Re explains, his passion evident as he discusses his vision for a future where olive oil’s complexities are as well understood as fine wine. While his company employs rigorous authentication methods, from advanced chemical analysis to evaluation by expert tasting panels, Re believes true quality assurance starts with producer relationships. “The real revolution in olive oil education will happen in homes and restaurants,” he asserts, “where people discover firsthand how an exceptional olive oil can elevate simple dishes and enhance their daily lives.” For Pietro Re and Olio Tamia, the pursuit of EVOO perfection is a never-ending journey. They continue to experiment with sustainable methods, like using recycled water from the olive mill to nourish the groves. They’re mastering the nuances of cultivars like Frantoio, Leccino, Maurino, Moraiolo, and the indigenous Caninese.
A landmark study in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that consuming 25 milliliters of Extra Virgin Olive Oil daily significantly reduced cardiovascular mortality. Research published in Molecular Nutrition & Food Research revealed that EVOO’s polyphenols, particularly oleocanthal, possess anti-inflammatory properties similar to ibuprofen. Additionally, a 2022 study in the Journal of the American College of Cardiology following 92,000 participants over 28 years found those consuming more than half a tablespoon of olive oil daily had a 19% lower risk of premature death.
What are the differences between Biologico, DOP, and IGP Extra Virgin Olive Oils?
Pietro Re: These are quality certifications for Italian olive oil: All three protect consumers from counterfeiting and recognize producers who follow strict guidelines
- DOP and IGP oils must be evaluated by independent tasters and achieve minimum quality scores - These certifications guarantee quality and support producers who respect raw material sourcing and environmental standards
What sensory characteristics indicate high-quality EVO?
Pietro Re: The standout indicators include:
1. A “Fruity” aroma with herbaceous green olive scents
2. Fresh taste consistent with the smell
3. Slightly bitter flavor reminiscent of arugula or chicory
4. Peppery/ spicy finish
These characteristics come from polyphenols and classify the “Extra” quality!
Does olive oil cause weight gain?
Pietro Re: No! Extra Virgin Olive Oil improves metabolism and controls insulin, which is responsible for fat accumulation. And, when cooked at proper temperatures, Extra Virgin Olive Oil actually reduces carbohydrate absorption
Is color a good indicator of olive oil quality?
Pietro Re: Absolutely, Not! This is why professional tastings use dark glasses to avoid color bias. While oil color can change due to various factors, it doesn’t necessarily affect quality. Exception: Reddish color indicates aging and exposure to light/heat
You say, we eat olive oil, not drink it—why?
Pietro Re: This distinction is important because olive oil is a food, not a beverage. It’s rich in nutrients and should be treated as an integral ingredient in meals. Using the term “eat” helps emphasize its role as a fundamental food component rather than a mere condiment or supplement. This terminology reflects its proper place in a healthy diet.
Is there a one-size fits all approach to Olive Oil? Can I choose one EVO for all dishes?
Pietro Re: Would you choose one wine for all dishes? The variety and complexity of extra virgin olive oils make them suited for different culinary applications. Just as you might pair a bold red wine with a hearty steak and a crisp white with delicate fish, different EVOOs can enhance specific dishes in unique ways. Matching the flavor profile and intensity of the oil to the ingredients is part of the art and pleasure of cooking with high-quality extra virgin olive oil.